THAILAND — Ajahn Kusalo's: There and Back – 2010
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The actual travel to Thailand was as unneventful as hurling one's body through space at nearly a thousand kilometers an hour for over twenty hours can be. Somewhere in the monks' unwritten guide it says something like: "After clearing security and finding your seat enter second jhana. Wait for the seat belt sign to go off before attempting fourth." I couldn't find the exact page so did my best with a variety of timeless contentment techniques. One good one was the upgrade to first class on Thai Air on the Tokyo to Bangkok leg. It was a shame that I was too tired to take full advantage of the facilities beyond being able to stretch out and sleep. Perchance to dream - and a tropical wonderland appeared.

I was met at the airport and driven to Dhammaram, a wonderful amenity for monastics in central Bankok set up and maintained by the host of the alms giving ceremony ('toht pa pah' in Thai) to be held on Sunday, February 24th. Arriving a few days early I had hoped to acclimatise to the shift from minus ten to plus thirty and adjust to the twelve hour time difference. There was an extra challenge having to switch a lot between air and conditioned-air. I failed this last and ended up with a rather noisy-nose head cold.

Luang Por Sumedho arrived on Friday having previously been a few days out of the city recovering from his successful eye operation. Things became noticeably busier with more people coming to offer the meal. A typical day started around five-thirty heading out on alms-round into relatively fresh and cool air, the streets already buzzing with people and traffic and vendors setting up stalls for the day ahead. The walk was probably only a kilometer each way but we returned with bowls laden and several plastic bags full of offerings hanging from several fingers. The meal, about an hour after our return, was far more than we had collected from the street having been added to by all those coming to visit; mostly to see Luang Por.

People started gathering at Dhammaram about 8.30 on Sunday and by 9.30 the room was comfortably crowded with everyone in good spirits. Khun Vanee Lamsam had initiated the pa pah but it was principally her neices and nephews who were taking the lead with her nephew Pey as the main organiser. Seven trays of illuminated lotus flowers greeted guests at the entrance as a symbol of the birth of the Buddha and the birth of a little and little-known monastery in Eastern Canada. The video and two books of photos showcasing Tisarana were very much appreciated by all and saved a lot of explanation on my part (in my non-existant Thai :). The shrine was festooned with lillies and lotuses and a banana-frond money tree had been set up to collect donations. It was getting a lot of happy attention. It was nice to have Ajahn Amaro, from Abhayagiri, Ajahn Pannyasaro, from Amaravati, and Ayya Jotika, from Spain, join the ceremony.

The various elements of the ceremony unfolded in the relaxed, formal/informal way that an ancient tradition allows. Ajahn Sumedho gave everyone the Five Precepts and this was followed by auspicious chanting of paritta by the sangha. The meal was offered to the sangha and they then chanted the anumodana blessings. After everyone had finished eating there were several formal offerings the most significant of which was of course all the collected donations. Ajahn Sumedho then gave a Dhamma talk in Thai. This concluded the formal events and many people remained to chat. It was nice for me to meet a few of the family members supporting this occassion. The initial count of donations, allowing that there were some yet to come, came to a wonderfully joyous and generous million baht. Sadhu! Sadhu! Sadhu!

 

Seven illuminated trays of lotus flowers lead guests to the entrance.

Flowers adorn the shrine at Dhammaram.
Luang Por is happy.

Part of the gathering for the pa-pah. nb. the 'Tisarana book' at right.

Blessing are given by Ajahns Sumedho, Amaro, Panyasaro, Kusalo and Ayya Jotika.

Khun Pey leading the way in making some of the many formal offerings.

Ajahn Sumedho gives the five precepts.

The donations are counted.

A Bodhi tree grows on the roof of Dhammaram between stair-head doors.

Ajahn Kusalo meeting with a potential candidate for monastic ordination.